A SLICE OF VICTORIAN LIFE - PART III

The Victorian era was known for its own unique fashions.

While today's women adhere to diets and exercise programs to stay slim, ladies in the last half of the 19th century enlisted the aid of corsets and padding to mold their figures into the fashionable shape of the day.   Although the hemline remained at the ankle, the  bell-shaped skirt of the Civil War period gave way to the S-shaped silhouette of the bustle.  A lady's undergarments included a corset, chemise, drawers and a bustle, the latter of which could consist of a wire cage, a horsehair pad or even crumpled newspapers or fabric.  Skirts were sometimes so heavy that braces were worn under the bodice to support the weight.  Her stockings were embroidered only at the ankle and instep, as that was all that could be beneath the long skirt.  Sleeveless dresses were only worn in the evening, and bonnets or hats were required when a woman was outdoors.  A woman's skin was always shielded from the sun to avoid freckling or tanning.  Make-up was not considered to be respectable.  A pale, delicate complexion was admired, and she sought to achieve this look by drinking vinegar and even small amounts of arsenic.  The design of her clothes was not meant to be practical;  its purpose was to accent the ideal that a woman was helpless and needed looking after by others.  The typical hairstyle of the period was center-parted, with cascading ringlets on either side.  Her accessories were numerous:  fans, mittens, muffs, parasols, gloves and hats.  The hats of the period were elaborate, and trimmed with lace, ribbon, artificial flowers, feathers, and even entire stuffed birds.  Her gloves were meticulously cared for, kept on special stretchers made of bone, wood or brass, and gloves were always obligatory when she left the house.  Feminine fashions in the late 1800s went through more rapid changes, due to the fact that women were more educated and read the newspapers and magazines that highlighted the latest trends.  Also, by the end of the 1860s the sewing machine had come into use, making it possible for clothing to be produced more quickly and easily than when hand-sewing was the laborious method of construction.

The Victorian man was no less a fashion plate.  His traditional role of husband/father/household head/provider/businessman required him to dress properly to reflect the importance of his station in life.  Male fashion in previous eras had been more spirited with brightly colored materials and fancy trims; shoes had high heels and large buckles.  The clothes of Victorian gentlemen projected a more serious demeanor with darker, more austere tones; a solid-colored frock coat with a pair of subdued striped or plaid trousers was his typical costume.  His waistcoat was the one article of clothing which could be fashioned from some brighter, patterned cloth.  A well-cut overcoat was a necessity, and a top hat completed the ensemble; the latter was kept carefully steamed and brushed to keep it looking smart.  Beards, mustaches and side whiskers were popular;  some men patronized the barber shop for a shave, while others used a straight razor at home.

The fashions of yesteryear, while elegant, were hot, heavy and uncomfortable.  Today's easy-care fabrics and
comfortable, practical styles of clothing have made life much easier.